Sight to Behold

The hour-long ride from Ipoh to Tasek Raban was most exhilarating, as the journey took us past rustic kampong houses on stilts and on the ground interspersed with dense virgin forests that stretch up into the cloud-covered highlands. It was a sight to behold as the Kuala Kangsar-Grik Highway offers motorists a vista of rural Malaysia, especially of Perak, at its very best. Since the highway runs parallel to the Bintang Range, the going can be a little stressful for the lonely traveller. But we were in an air-conditioned tour bus, the ride was smooth and exciting, albeit a little tiring.

The coach soon came to a stop and upon disembarking we were pleasantly greeted by the sight of a neat and spacious hut by the side of Tasek Raban. This is the Pangkalan Raban-Durian Pipit Jetty, the start point of our foray into the unknown. A motorised boat measuring about 30 feet, the size of a medium sampan, was tied to a pole stuck in the mud. This boat would take us to our destination – Kampong Batu Ring-Beng – where our hosts awaited us.

Boat Ride

The mere thought of us cramped in this puny boat scared the daylights out of me, a devout landlubber. The others were no better. They too had their reservations and were undecided whether to clamber on board or to give the whole thing a miss. But the beckoning of the boatman and his repeated assurances soothed our frayed nerves. Soon all ten of us were snugly seated in his sampan.

Pak Ramli, a native of Tasek Raban, has been ferrying people to and from Kampong Batu Ring-Beng since he was strong enough to row a boat. He knew the lake very well. His deft hands soon took control of the motorised sampan powered by an 8-hp outboard engine, as he manoeuvred his way in the calm waters. Small and rickety it might have been, but it worked wonders for its size.

The 15-minute ride provided us with a rare opportunity to admire the beauty of the environs. The lake, according to Pak Ramli, is a source of income for the village folks. Salt and pickled fish from Tasek Raban are found all over the country. In fact, Lenggong is noted for ikan pekasam a delicacy which is eagerly sought by visitors to the region.

A welcoming party consisting of a kompang troupe was on hand to receive us as we berthed by the jetty at Kampong Batu Ring-Beng. The beating of the kompang and the accompanying song did much to lift our sagging spirits. The Kampong Batu Ring-Beng homestay programme was initiated in 2007 and our visit that day was intended at promoting it to in-bound tourists, both local and foreign. Through word of mouth, Kampong Batu Ring-Beng has acquired some prominence among visitors abroad.

Legend

The legend of Kampong Batu Ring-Beng was recounted to us by the director of the homestay project, Muhamad Alias Mat Arshad. This is his version (in his own words).

“A wedding ceremony to solemnise the marriage between a cat and a dog was interrupted by a sudden rainstorm causing the guests to panic. A giant figure mysteriously appeared on the scene. It threw a large slab of rock on the villagers killing all except for a small girl.”

The rock, according to Alias, was the summit of Gunung Batu Ring in Kelantan, thus the name.

Homestay Programme

There are some 30 participants involved in the homestay programme.

“Our objective is to showcase the uniqueness of Tasek Raban to visitors, especially its ecology and cuisines. Freshwater fish being a staple here will be the focus of our meals, particularly ikan pekasam and a wide variety of ulam available locally”, said Alias.

After the briefing we left for the houses to which we were assigned. My host was Pak Abu, another native of this lake country. His house was a simple wooden structure typical of Malay abodes in the area. In spite of its simplicity the interior was spacious while the beds were warm and inviting. Facilities for bathing and washing were spartan but in good taste. The food Pak Abu’s wife prepared was tasteful and the helpings generous. I was in no mood to complain.

Soon after dusk we were bundled into a boat for a ride around the lake, the size of Perlis. A night out in the open offers a different kind of ambience and experience to the first-time visitor. Although it was barely visible in the pitch darkness, the sounds of fish jumping and splashing in the murky water were enough to excite the meekest from among our group. “That’s a tangkalan, a denizen of the deep” said the coxswain. He could almost pick out the type of fish by the sound it made, so we guessed.

Homestay in Kampong Batu Ring-Beng is definitely different from those on offer in other parts of the country. Unlike the rest, the Tasek Raban homestay provides visitors an opportunity to enjoy Nature in a pristine setting surrounding a placid lake with rolling hills and lush jungles in the background. A night stay at Kampong Batu Ring-Beng, inclusive of meals, costs only RM60. For the many “extras” thrown in, it is definitely a bargain.

Getting There

To reach Tasek Raban, exit Plus Expressway at the Kuala Kangsar junction. Take the Kuala Kangsar-Grik Highway after the tollgate. Keep on the highway and you will cross another iconic structure, the majestic Raja Nazrin Bridge, which spans the Perak River. On nearing Tasek Raban turn right towards the Pangkalan Raban jetty. Follow the signposts. The cost of a boat ride is RM10 return.

A RM50 package covers the boat ride and accommodation. This discount is available for those wanting to stretch their ringgit.

Reservations can be made with Tourism Malaysia (Perak) 05-2552 772 and 05-255 1012 or call Muhamad Alias 016-565 4303.

The Roots, a resort dedicated to eco-tourism on the banks of the Kinta River in Tanjung Rambutan, had their first intake of visitors from the German European School in Singapore recently. Comprised 71 students and four teachers, the group was a five-day field trips throughout Perak.

The resort’s study programme focuses on raising awareness of environmental conservation and sustainability issues, particularly to young people who have the power to shape the future of our planet.

The group at Matang Mangrove Forest Taiping

The students, whose average age is 13 years, were taken on action-packed field trips from Gua Tempurung at Gopeng and its surrounding adventure camps to Matang Mangrove Forest at Taiping where they had a chance to re-plant mangrove seedlings, thus replenishing an important habitat for many endangered bird species found nearby.

Conservation of indigenous cultures is also part of the programme and as such their trip included a visit to the Orang Asli village at Kampong Tonggan, Ulu Kinta where students integrated with the children of Orang Asli families. The ice-breaker activity was singing the song ”heads, shoulders, knees and toes” repeatedly but in various dialects starting from English to Bahasa Malaysia.

Blowpipe training

Back at The Roots, the students learnt to play sepak takraw, made a poster inspired by the Orang Asli visit, and even had some target practice using traditional Orang Asli blow-pipes.

For a sense of adventure the students visited Kellie’s Castle where they participated in a quest designed by Ecofieldtrips that took them through its dungeons and secret passageways to discover the tale of The William Kellie Smith family.

Ipoh history was a major focus throughout the week especially the tin industry culminating in a fun tin panning session.

Throughout the week the students were led by a team of eight experienced biologists to learn about the diverse history, biology, people and attractions that Perak and Ipoh have to offer.

Dip in the Kinta River

According to the co-owner of the resort, Bridget Hedderman, the programme for this first batch took over eight months to prepare together with her team of biologists. Bridget herself is an experienced biologist and conservationist with a Masters in Education and is pro-active in marine conservation and education.

For the remainder of the year Roots already has bookings from another 10 schools from countries like France, Singapore, Dubai and Hong Kong as well as KL and Penang.

One of the visiting teachers said that the Roots programme was one of the best programmes available for eco-tourism and educating young minds. With this in place, Perak now has a tour programme, albeit a study programme, which enables participants to appreciate the diverse natural attractions available in the state, as well as to learn about its history.

The new Perak fieldtrip has certainly taken off to a brilliant start and if the response of the first batch of students is anything to go by, it has taken firm root for The Roots to receive more students in the future!

Eyesore in OA Village
Next came the Orang Asli Village which is an absolute disgrace and not worth the journey. We are sure that at one time this was an untouched sanctuary where the people lived as they have for centuries. But today the village is spoilt by an ugly, government built, water treatment and distribution plant, right in the centre of the village consisting of bare steel girders with tanks on top. It could not be uglier if it tried. Now of course, providing clean water for the people is a noble and necessary thing to do, but when it is done with no thought for nature or the village environment then it becomes an eyesore. We implore the government to be more thoughtful of the environment in their future projects on the islands.
Rafflesia and Leeches
The trek up to see the Rafflesia was wet, a little steep and suffered from a galaxy of friendly leeches who attached themselves to the ankles with gay abandon. The children screamed and cried, but nonetheless made it to the top to see their first Rafflesia, although not yet properly open. One smart trekker had brought the salt and the leeches were soon vanquished although the bleeding continued. Next time we shall wear Leech socks!

From Talikali viewpoint

Permits Needed
Pulau Talikali was quite different. The walk was steep in places and there were plenty of signs of elephants, wild boar and others. Fortunately we did not meet face to face with any of them, but there was no doubt they were around and probably heard us coming. The view was breathless; as we were by the time we got to the viewpoint on the top. At this point you may be wondering why we did not actually visit the protected Royal Belum Forest and State Park, said to be the final frontier of our disappearing virgin rainforests. The answer is two fold. First we did not know what we were to find in the area and took this short trip as an introduction to future trips and secondly we had not allowed ourselves the three weeks that are often required to arrange a government permit to visit the park. But rest assured, we shall be back for a longer trip soon that will take in more of both Temenggor and the State Park, for there is so much to experience.

Banding Island's useless jetty

Litter and Useless Jetty
Turning to more general aspects of our trip, we were very disappointed in a number of things. First, our joy at arriving at Pulau Banding Jetty soon turned to dismay when we saw that, despite the huge red sign that prohibited littering, there were polystyrene food packets, plastic bottles and paper covering the entire jetty area with Roti Canai curry sauce all over the seats. Nothing short of disgraceful and if we understand correctly the stall holder who sells these offending items is responsible to the government for the cleanliness then he is just not doing his job. From all accounts punitive government action is long overdue in this area.
Secondly the solidly constructed boat jetty cannot be used as its designer did not taken into account the rise and fall of the water and apparently being designed for low water is completely submerged. We therefore boarded our boat over the muddy, litter-strewn bank. A standard floating jetty, in use all over the world is what the government should have spent our money on! Why didn’t they? Surely Perak must have someone with knowledge of such basic requirements. One wonders how the contractor qualified for the job.
Future Ecology Threatened
Then as we made our way around the lake over the next three days we were surprised to see how many islands are occupied by government departments, we believe as private recreational facilities. Add to these the small tour operators who provide campsites and floating chalets with doubtful control of effluent, litter and use of the lake and again, we worry for the future of the ecology of the area. Unless properly controlled, more people invariably means more pollution, degradation and destruction of nature’s gifts, all in the name of profit. Malaysia really needs to take a leaf out of Australia’s or New Zealand’s book as to how to control reservoir and forest activities without stifling tourism.

Logging barge Temenggor

But if the above is not bad enough the worst is yet to come. Logging! Yes this desecration of our ever diminishing rainforest continues unabated and as we understand it, perfectly legally, the evidence being in the barges on the lake and lorries that abound on the road, carting away the giant trees that Mother Nature took so many decades to grow. Of course there are promises that this will all stop soon, but there have been many earlier, empty, promises which have allowed the destruction to continue, changing the whole face of Malaysia by displacing people, destroying the ecosystems, driving animals into extinction and turning green lands into almost barren deserts.
Take Action Now
So what can we, who proudly call ourselves Perakians, do to stop all these problems? The answer is simple. First support the MNS and WWF as strength is in numbers and secondly, employ democracy. Let your government representatives know your feelings. We shall not be accused of sedition or being anti-government as long as we do this sensibly and within the law. Can you imagine the effect on your local Exco representative if he was to receive 50,000 individual letters from unhappy constituents? Surely he would act on your behalf or face the rest of his life regretting his inaction. Our failure to take action now will only result in more destruction.

After promising ourselves for more than 12 months that we would visit Temenggor/Belum, we finally got around to confirming a booking just after Christmas and took off for the trip on 31^st January. The following describes our experience.

The first problem was where to stay as there are many tourism internet sites extolling the virtues of possible places – campsites, houseboats, floating chalets and more – but local advice was that there were only two places to be seriously considered if we wished to experience genuine attempts at ecotourism, the Belum Rainforest Resort on Banding Island or the Belum Eco Resort on Temenggor Discovery Island. A visit to each website made it abundantly clear that this would be an easy decision to make as they are as much alike as chalk and cheese.

Rainforest Resort

Belum Rainforest Resort
The Belum Rainforest Resort, owned by Tan Sri Mustapha Kamal’s Emkay Group, is almost exactly what you would expect from any good quality resort in Malaysia with nicely fitted, air conditioned, en suite, hotel rooms providing telephone, mini bar and the like, just a few steps away from Reception and the Dining Room. But we discovered that Banding Island is, in fact, not an island but part of the Temenggor mainland projecting into the lake and the resort is close to the main road, easily accessible by vehicle and well above the lake, thus allowing only glimpses of the water from most areas.

Therefore you really do not get the feeling of being close to nature. To some extent this is combated by cladding the external concrete walls with bamboo, a landscaped garden of rare local herbs and fish ponds rearing rare and almost extinct fish for eventual release into the wild.

However the resort’s great advantage is their close relationship with both the Malaysian Nature Society (MNS) and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), who provide eco-advice and the occasional lecture for visiting parties of young people. With trepidation we understand that additional chalets are planned as are development of homestead land parcels, a Rest and Recreation area and the establishment of two five-star boutique resorts north and south of Pulau Banding. Despite the resort’s good record of caring about the ecosystems so far, we wonder if all these developments are necessary or whether they will bring any good to the area (other than profit for the developer). Such “development” usually translates into “destruction” and we fear for the future of Pulau Banding. Rates at the Rainforest Resort range from RM350 to RM500⁺⁺ for one twin/double room and breakfast for two. All other meals and excursions are at additional cost. Promotional rates may be available, but there is a surcharge during weekends, school holidays, eve and public holidays.

Arriving at Discovery Island

Discovery Island
Totally different in every aspect is Belum Eco Resort on Discovery Island. First of all it is a real 6-acre island 7 km by boat from the Banding Island Jetty. Secondly, the accommodation has none of the luxuries of the Rainforest Resort – just small, twin-bedded, timber or bamboo chalets with atap roofs, each with a fan and an open-air balcony, the latter incorporating a shielded, but open to the elements, shower and wash hand basin. The toilets are in a spotlessly clean communal block just a few metres away, ensuring that all effluent is piped to an effective sewage treatment system rather than into the lake. Here you really are close to nature without any sign of civilization or pollution – you are in a world of your own and believe it or not it is mosquito-free! Additional facilities include an open sundeck below the breezy open air dining area, above which is a beautiful general purpose lounge where multi-media presentations about the lake and its wildlife are given. A shortcoming for the not-so-fit is that these general facilities and the chalets are a short walk from each other and require some 80 steps to be negotiated, 40 up and 40 down, to match the contours of the terrain. Being adventurous and really wanting to get a feel for the area we chose Discovery Island and booked their 3-day, 2-night package. It costs RM550 per person all inclusive. Pick up and drop off was at Banding Island jetty. We did not regret our decision for one moment.

View from our balcony

Discovery Island is owned and run by a father (Steve Khong) and son team who started several years by renting out houseboats on the lake and then moved on to the island on a longish lease. They have done everything they can to build the resort without spoiling the environment and have carefully constructed the buildings without cutting down trees or making them glaringly obvious to other users of the lake. All garbage is regularly removed from the island and many other eco-friendly practices are carried out. They have six young male staff, very capable in maintaining the resort, running the boats safely and providing tasty, quality local food whilst also fulfilling any special dietary arrangements necessary. Father and son eat with the guests thus maintaining the quality. Notwithstanding, it is fair to say that there are several improvements that could be made and Steve has some great plans for the future, finances allowing.

Treks and Campsites
Their 3-day, 2-night package, is based on the principle of free play in the mornings with swimming, canoeing and fishing available and short treks in the afternoons. Generously an unprogrammed extra was also thrown in FOC – a very memorable, early morning, boat trip to view the hornbills. Each day is rounded off, after dinner, with multimedia presentations on the locality and wildlife. The treks were reasonably easy although in part very steep, and on the first day they included Pulau Tujuh and its seven waterfalls, Kampung Chuweh, an Orang Asli Village on a separate island and Pulau Besar with its Rafflesia site. Day 2 took us on a short, (50 minutes) steep climb up to the viewing tower on Pulau Talikali. The view was well worth the climb. Our guide was reasonably knowledgeable about the flora and fauna but could only speak Malay which could be a setback, although it was no problem to us.

Considering the treks in more detail, it seems that the Rainforest Resort also use Pulau Tujuh for their treks and camping and have built some permanent structures, toilets and pondoks. Our local guide was very careful to steer us around these and off the normal track and it was clear that he considers them as off-limits to us and not for use of anyone other than the Rainforest Resort. This seemed strange as the islands are government land that should be completely available to all. After all heritage and nature belong to everybody! How can one resort lay claim to public property at the expense of others? We do hope that this is not the old story of those rich in cash and contacts using their position to trample on others less well endowed as so often happens. That is certainly not the spirit of 1Malaysia!

Next issue: Orang Asli village, Rafflesia and more…

The rivers that cascade down from the Main Range are slowly but surely attracting the right crowd of conservationists.

Over at Gopeng along the Kampar River there are already  three eco-resort camps. And now starting in December the Kinta River will have its first eco-resort.

Called ‘The Roots’ it is located 12 km away from Ipoh at Tanjung Rambutan on the banks of the Kinta River.

The resort’s owners, Bridget Hedderman and Peter Witzigmann, both dedicated conservationists developed the resort with minimum impact to the surrounding environment.

The accommodation at The Roots features four tree-top suites built on stilts right on the banks of the Kinta River. They are designed around the trees whereby the tree branches are a unique feature of the interior. The balcony overlooks the river and features a Jacuzzi with which to relax and take in the scenic rain forest.

In the garden by the river is a long bar with gazebos and barbeque pits next to them. There is also a swimming pool which is filled with filtered river water.

The Roots is part owned by Ecofieldtrips Pte Ltd of Singapore, a 10-year old company devoted to teaching young people about the environment by taking them on field trips.

When Bridget, a marine biologist and Ecofieldtrips Director, first saw this place in May this year, she was fascinated by its scenic beauty. “I immediately knew that this place would be ideal for my students”, she said. True to her vision Roots was ready within 6 months.

She was introduced to the place by her partner Peter. Bridget, who also runs a resort at Tioman Island with Peter, says “The Roots is a better resort because it has so much more environmental resources to offer her students”.

“Perak” exclaimed Bridget, “has so much to offer. You have the limestone hills with its impressive cave systems, Orang Asli communities, white-water rafting and the Matang mangrove swamps. At Pangkor Island we can teach about marine biology”.

“Even Ipoh town with both its elegant and decrepit shop houses and colonial mansions can make for a great lesson for history students to learn about this once thriving city of tin. This place is an unmatched combination of adventure, history, culture and nature exploration, an unforgettable educational experience”, she enthused.

Officiating at the opening of the resort was State Assemblyman for Hulu Kinta, Dato’ Rusnah Kassim who said that she was impressed with the eco-resort, “I am so happy that we have a resort here in Tanjung Rambutan. At least now we have another icon that we can be associated with”.

With the opening of the resort it appears that Ipoh with its surrounding attractions is finally getting the recognition that has eluded it for so long. Well better late than never.

The Roots, Batu 10½ Mile, Jalan Chemor, 31250 Tanjong Rambutan, Perak

Tel.: 05-5335411

Email: the rootsmalaysia@gmail.com

Web: www.throots.com.my

Few people realise that turtles land in Perak as they are more commonly sighted in the East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia. I got to know that there is a turtle sanctuary in Segari when it was mentioned by one of my colleagues during our short trip to Pangkor Island recently. We decided to check the place out on our way back to Ipoh.

Since none of us have been to this place, we had to find out for ourselves its exact location in Segari.

Beautiful Drive

I was thinking during the journey that even if we did not find the place, the drive there was worth the trouble, as we were greeted with spectacular scenery along the stretch of road from Sitiawan to Segari. In fact, I was impressed with the road condition and the breathtaking view before us, that I temporarily forgot where we were heading!

At this point, everybody in the group was on the lookout for any sign of a turtle (the signboard, of course!) and eventually, it appeared before us. Great! We were on the right track. We meandered along the narrower path and eagerly anticipated where it would lead us.

We were soon greeted by a grand mansion-like structure, complete with a gigantic platform that looks out to sea. One of the kids blurted, “Is this a turtle hotel or what?!”  Honestly, all of us were dumbfounded and didn’t know what to say, until we noticed a signboard (which was not obvious at all) that said ‘… the property of Jabatan Agama Islam’. It was not the place that we were looking for but we did not want to give up yet. It didn’t help that we had promised the kids that they were going to see some turtles.

Then we saw it – the splendid stretch of beach shortly after the bend from the aforementioned structure. Our hopes were high again; it looked like the kids (and adults) won’t be disappointed after all. We were excited after that long ride (approximately 35 km from Lumut) to finally see ‘Pusat Pengurusan Penyu, Pasir Panjang Segari” in front of us.

Romantic Location – Almost Derelict

It couldn’t be more romantic; with the sea to our left and the sound of waves in the air, as we walked into the centre. We saw what looked like an exhibition area but to our horror, the cases were dusty and some exhibits were missing! It looked like many other poorly maintained establishments that we often see in our country. It was really an emotional roller coaster ride for us. The disappointment, then excitement and disappointment again – we were simply lost, not knowing what to expect next.

We decided to explore the place on our own. It was not going to be a wasted trip. There had to be something we could take home – at least some photographs! There were a number of ponds, some fenced, some not. The unfenced ponds housed several turtles each in them, and the kids were happy enough at his point with what they saw. The consolation is that the ponds looked clean and well-maintained, as opposed to the exhibition area.

Gaining Entry

Then God decided to be kind to us. In walked two gentlemen with a turtle in one of the men’s hands. I guess they saw how desperate we were when a few of us started to fawn over the little creature. Apparently this one was caught in the nets of the local fishermen and hence brought to the centre for further action. As he proceeded to place the turtle into one of the fenced areas, I asked if we could get a closer look at the turtles inside. He gave us a once-over and must have wondered what a strange mix we were. You see, our group comprised members of all age groups and colours, very unlike their typical visitors – families and student groups.

We were subsequently granted entry and it was amazing indeed, to see the turtles ranging from newly-hatched ones to two-year-olds. We were told by the kind gentleman that the centre sometimes buys turtle eggs from the locals which will then be hatched and released as part of their turtle conservation effort.

Tourist Attraction?

What’s sad is that this centre is supposed to be a main tourist attraction (according to its objectives) but there is so little official information on it. It is potentially an education and tourism main draw to the state of Perak and I wish more could be done to encourage this.

A quick search on the internet only resulted in mentions of it in some private blogs. And some of these bloggers also noted how they managed to explore the place upon a lucky encounter with some personnel on site – pretty much like our own experience. Visiting hours are from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily, so this place deserves more publicity by the relevant authorities. It may not be a profit-generating enterprise but they have to realise that the benefits returned are immeasurable.

So, I suggest you give this place a try.  Although there is no public transportation available, it is easy enough to get there by car. If you use the road from Lumut to Taiping, you will come to Segari after about 30 km from Lumut. You will see a junction to the Lumut Power Plant. Follow this road for a few kilometres until you see a road going left. This little road will end at Pasir Panjang Beach where the centre is located.

It is highly recommended for half day trips especially for Ipohites. Forget about paying for expensive tours in faraway lands. Adventures should begin at home here in Perak.

By YUEN YIN FONG