by KT Leong
“The moment you’re born into this world, you’re making history. Big or small, right or wrong, good or bad, you’re part of history” – Professor Gary Lit Ying Loong
On a Sunday perfect for sightseeing, on 22 September, the Ave Maria Convent Alumni Association (AMCAA) organised a Historical Heritage Tour through the heart of Ipoh. The tour itself was historic, as it brought together the alumni of seven different schools in a celebration of Malaysia Day as well as Visit Perak Year 2024, with no regard for racial or religious boundaries. It was a trip through time that highlighted our mutual history as Malaysians and Ipoh-ites.
The schools that participated were Ave Maria Convent (AMC), Methodist Girls School (MGS), Sam Tet, Main Convent, SK Tasek Bercham, SMK Tasek and SK Buntong.
Guiding this tour was Professor (Dr.) Gary Lit Ying Loong, who guided a previous tour organised by AMCAA, which can be read here.
As the tour bus traversed through the city, Professor Lit relayed the story of each historic street or building with infectious enthusiasm. Much like how a football club enthusiast could recite the results of every game, the transfers of every player and even the medical or contractual conditions of those players during each game; Professor Lit shared the same zeal and breadth of knowledge for his topic. He didn’t simply memorise and parroted out a list of historical talking points for the tour, but Professor Gary is a genuine fan of history, which lets him present history as an engaging storyteller.
The tour highlighted how Ipoh was filled to the brim with history. But it also stressed that the tour wasn’t just about the war in Malaya 80 years ago, but that it has direct relevance to what is happening around the world, such as the war in Ukraine, where Professor Lit’s own Ukrainian students have been drafted and killed in action (KIA). Therefore it is a call for peace.
For instance, despite the bitter feelings that arose from the Larut Wars, the principal players were able to put aside past hatreds and form friendships, towards the cause of peace. As Professor Lit puts is, “Lawan boleh jadi kawan, kawan tak mahu lawan” (Fighting can lead to friendship. Friends don’t want to fight).
Taking off from Jalan Chung Thye Phin, Professor Lit gave a rundown on the last Kapitan Cina of Perak and Malaya, Mr. Chung Thye Phin. As storied as the rundown was, it still only told a fraction of Chung Thye Phin’s life. Not only was he the first non-China-born Chinese to have made the trek to the gorges of the Yangtze River at Chungking, China; he was among the few who were permitted to mint his own money during the latter half of World War 1. He was permitted to print and issue 10-cent notes for circulation during that period.
From there, the tour went on Hugh Low Street, now known as Jalan Sultan Iskandar, where Professor Lit pointed out the remnants of war shelters by the Kinta River as well as the beautiful Masjid Panglima Kinta. Sir Hugh Low, for which the street was once named after, also led a life more eventful than most people. He was even known to be close to Chung Keng Quee, the father of the aforementioned Chung Thye Phin.
The tour then made a stop at Kong Fu Kopitiam on Jalan Panglima, which hosted on its first floor, the Kwan Tak Hing Memorial Hall, which just had its grand opening on 8 September. Filled with many antiques, including traditional weapons like the 3 Chain Whip and Iron Wire Fist, the memorial paid homage to Kwan Tak Hing, a life member of the Perak Ku Kong Chow Association. However, he was most famous as the actor who portrayed Wong Fei Hung in Hong Kong cinema. He made over 130 films, with at least 77 of those in the role of Wong Fei Hung, making cinematic history for portraying the same character the most times. When people think of Wong Fei Hung in cinema, chances are they think of Kwan Tak Hing.
And all these streets can be traversed in a mere 10 to 15 minutes. Yet, they cover history that involved not just Ipoh, Perak or Malaysia, but history that reached the world.
These didn’t even include the stories behind or related to Concubine Lane, which can also be found on Jalan Panglima. Or just a stone’s throw away at St. Michael’s Institution, where British troops had regrouped during the Japanese Occupation of Malaya and the dark events which took place there. And nestled between both these places, is the nondescript clinic of Dr. Wu Lien-Teh, who invented the Wu Mask; which is the basis of the N95 respirator which was so prominent during the Covid-19 pandemic. Chances are, you’re wearing one right now.
The tour covered much more historical ground than what has already been mentioned, but surprisingly, it did not cover a lot of geographical ground. This just goes to show how filled with history, Ipoh is. If one is familiar with the heritage of Ipoh, one might be surprised to learn that the route one takes to have breakfast in the Old Town area, do some shopping at Ipoh Parade or celebrate the upcoming Nine Emperor Gods Festival at a local temple; could be filled with an exciting history of assassinations, executions, escapes from the Japanese forces and more.
Ipoh isn’t just a place to eat delicious food with the fattest and juiciest bean sprouts around. It isn’t just a beautiful place with its surrounding hills and eclectic, almost anachronistic, architecture. It’s also a place permeated with an incredible historical depth, that adds flavour and meaning for those familiar with the historical context. This heritage shouldn’t just be preserved, but celebrated. So that those who might think that Ipoh was just a dull mining town, can better appreciate and enjoy this beautiful city.
This tour could not have been successful without the tireless efforts of Josephine Tan Ai Ling, Yong Mee Yen and Megan Chee, doing all the legwork and supporting Professor Lit. Nor the support of the AMCAA committee members, such as the president, Mdm. Chik Mun Ling, the honorary life president Mdm. Moy Ooi Thye, AMCAA advisor cum ex-principal of AMC, Ms. Foong Kee Han and ex-principal of Methodist Girl School, Pn. Nalini a/p Achuthan Nair. As well as the other participating schools.